The Conch Republic: Key Largo
Gateway to the Florida Keys
Key Largo will never be known as budget travel nirvana.
Getting there takes time. Hotels are often on the waterfront and charge accordingly. Diving, snorkeling and fishing trips usually require guides and expensive gear.
But most who have been there will tell you Key Largo is worth the trouble and expense. Seven miles off its shoreline, you'll find the most spectacular stretch of the world's third-largest reef system.
You'll also meet plain-spoken, colorful locals who like to call themselves Conchs rather than Floridians, and some of the best seafood America has to offer. Good travel deals are waiting, too.
65 Miles and 50 Years from Miami
Florida's Turnpike has been extended to Florida City, and you'll pay a toll that will save you time if not money. Taking I-95 through Miami traffic to U.S. 1 will not put you in the mellow mood necessary to enjoy Key Largo. It's a clear case of paying a little money to save a lot of trouble.
Unless you come in by boat, U.S. Highway 1 (see map) is the way you'll probably reach Key Largo. There's a 17-mile stretch between Florida City and Key Largo that shows you sections of the Everglades and Biscayne Bay. Look for eagle's nests on the powerline towers, because they're more frequent than passing zones on this two-lane stretch.
Once in Key Largo, you are at the start of a 106-mile overseas highway to Key West. Everything in the Keys is addressed by its proximity to a mile marker on this highway. For example, a business with the address "10200 Overseas Highway" is at Mile Marker 102 (MM 102 for short).
That's about all the red tape you need to worry about once you cross into Monroe County. Now you can relax and enjoy world-class diving, snorkeling and fishing.
Ways to See the Reef and Stay Dry
The view to the left shows John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, the only undersea park in the United States. The water changes color over the reef to a beautiful teal blue. Let's face it, though: after a few minutes, that view's beauty begins to fade.
If you're not a diver, you'll need to board one of the area's glass-bottom boats for the seven-mile ride from Key Largo to the reef.
One cruise leaves from the State Park, and you'll pay the $10 park entrance fee in addition to the cost of the trip. If you're not planning to visit the park, you can save the entry fee by catching the Key Largo Princess at MM 100, where parking is free.
A family of four can expect to pay $56 USD. Before you wince, consider that you will see one of the world's top reef systems for a little more than it costs one adult to enter Walt Disney World.
Molasses Reef got its name after a ship carrying that cargo ran aground here more than 100 years ago. There are now hefty fines for anyone who harms these delicate coral formations, for a mere touch can begin a slow death sentence.
A 45-minute ride takes you to the reef, where you'll spend about 30 minutes reviewing species of fish and plant life. Watch people's legs instinctively jerk upward when a barracuda or shark suddenly swims into view. That moment alone justifies the expense of the trip.
Assuming favorable conditions that don't prompt seasickness, this is the easy way to see the reef. But many visitors simply are not satisfied with 30 minutes in a boat. They arrive in Key Largo to discover one of the largest diving tour industries in North America.
