London has Big Ben. Paris has the Eiffel Tower. Riga has the Freedom Monument.
Riga's landmark is relatively obscure but no less significant.
It stood defiantly throughout the Soviet occupation because someone had convinced the ruling powers it was nothing more than an art object. But to thousands of Latvians, it was a silent symbol of their desire to live in freedom.
Pre-1940 Latvia was one of Europe's most prosperous and progressive nations. That tradition dates back centuries to when Riga was a member of the Hanseatic League of cities. That prosperity can be seen in the city's medieval skyline and the Old Town's narrow, winding business district. It's an area that you can walk for the better part of a day to make your own discoveries.
Few countries have endured more hardship in the past century. Soviet armies occupied this tiny nation in 1940, but soon were driven out by the Nazis. Latvians initially welcomed the Nazis as liberators, but quickly discovered that first impression was false. In the four years of Nazi occupation, Latvian Jews and others labeled as undesirable were imprisoned or killed.
When the Soviets returned in 1944, they continued with purges of their own, capturing thousands and sending them to Siberian work camps. Families were split by the ability to escape the country undetected.
Riga's Museum of the Occupation tells this sad but important story with pictures and exhibits, and admission is free.
Understanding Latvia's recent past helps a traveler appreciate the rapid recovery that is unfolding. It also explains some of the most wonderful discoveries.
For example, the Latvian beach resort of Jurmala, just north of Riga, was among Soviet Russia's favorite playgrounds. In summer, it is a delightful destination where costs match up nicely with other European beach resorts.
On Latvia's western edge, the city of Liepaja is attracting younger tourists to another stretch of beautiful beach that has also become the center of Latvia's art and music scenes.
Throughout the Baltics, one of the main attractions is low cost. It is possible to pay prices approaching those of Western Europe if you don't shop carefully. But even in the bustling capital of Riga, one night at a three-star hotel is still available at $40 USD in some areas. A hearty dinner at a Latvian cafeteria can be had without an exhaustive search for a few U.S. Dollars.
This economic reality has led to a lot of "long weekend getaways" for people in Great Britain, Ireland, Scandinavia and Germany. Click "next" to find how they are able to afford those visits.
