Resort Review - Tabacon Resort at Arenal Volcano

In the late 1960s, farm children who would carry food to their fathers in the fields noticed springs they crossed barefooted each day were getting warmer. In July 1968, Arenal volcano erupted. Villagers were trapped and killed. By some accounts, 78 people died.

Yet after that tragic initial eruption, the area gradually developed a tourist trade that continues to flourish. Although officially classified as an active volcano, visible eruption activity has been minimal since late 2010.

At Tabacon, hot thermal spring pools closest to the volcano can reach water temperatures up to 42º C (108º F) while pools further into the property see water temperatures as low as 27º C (81º F).

There are seven major bathing pools, plus scores of other spots to sit and soak. If you ever feel a bit overheated, there are cold water pools in several locations. Near the clubhouse, you will find a swim-up bar and a water slide.

As for the water itself -- it starts as falling rain that flows into the earth's core through fissures in the earth's surface. At Arenal, volcanic forces push the water upward. According to the Tabacon resort Web site, about 97 percent of it is rain-based and the remainder magma-based.

The conclusion they have reached: "Tabacón Hot Springs perfectly combine mineral content, volume and temperature. While there are many hot springs destinations around the world, few offer this special balance."

To be sure, a few hours relaxing in the springs can be a highlight of your Costa Rica trip. But there's more to consider than just the water.

Visitors to the area can find a variety of accommodations, and virtually every one of them is less expensive than a stay at Tabacon resort. But some of those tourists will pay for day passes to visit the lush tropical gardens and thermal hot springs. This area is located just a few hundred yards across the highway from Tabacon resort lodgings.

If you have even a passing interest in plants and wildlife, Tabacon is going to make you happy. The tropical flora and fauna here are so extensive that the resort employs more than 50 people with the singular task of landscaping and gardening. Some visitors bypass bathing in the springs but walk the immaculately groomed trails that spread out alongside the waters. They observe tranquil, steamy beauty.

An evening pass that allows access to the springs and locker room, the gardens and a buffet dinner is $70 USD. Children aged 5-11 pay $35 and under 5 are free. Those who want to spend an entire day (lunch and dinner included) pay $95.

That's a lot of money, especially in Costa Rica. But this is a unique and memorable setting. You must decide if it's better to book a room here and forgo the need for an evening pass, or visit one of the other springs in the area. They feature the same water, but not the same level of amenities.

There are some limits on availability during times the resort is busy. The hours from 8-10 a.m. at the thermal springs and spa are reserved exclusively for resort guests.

Tabacon resort is a five-star property that is listed among "The Leading Hotels of the World," an upscale directory with exacting standards for inclusion. Many of Tabacon's best suites are priced as you might expect: $500/night or more with a two-night minimum when reserving online.

Tabacon room rates are not always that pricey. There are times of the year when "Forest Rooms" (more like a standard room than a resort suite) are priced as low as $137/night. When you consider the cost of a day pass, booking at this rate makes for a good value. Just remember that this rate is usually offered during off-season and does not include a 13 percent room tax.

During my stay, there were quite a few honeymooners on the property. If you're considering a Tabacon stay to celebrate a special occasion, there are suites that are more expensive than the basic rooms but often provide a good value. If you don't get enough hot water in the springs, some are equipped with hot tubs that look out into the rain forest. Sometimes, package deals at Tabacon provide a "free night" with the purchase of three or four nights.

There are two restaurants at Tabacon resort. Adjacent to rooms and suites is Los Tucanes Restaurant, which affords volcano views on clear days. It serves buffet breakfasts and á la carte lunch and dinner menus. Ave del Paraíso Restaurant is located adjacent to the springs and spa. It serves an á la carte lunch and buffet dinner.

The Grand Spa at Tabacon resort offers hydrotherapy, volcanic mud therapies, special massages, skin-care treatments and yoga sessions in a private or group setting. These services are not included in the cost of a day pass or a room. Massages start at $75 and appointments are necessary.

Off property, guided tours that skirt the boundary of the Arenal volcano are available. You'll see evidence of past lava flows.

You can also take a hanging bridges tour that reveals not only the forest below, but migratory paths for birds traveling between North and South America.

Adventuresome budget travelers can look into white water trips, canyoning, mountain biking excursions and hikes. Windsurfers and those who enjoy sport fishing favor sections of the nearby Lake Arenal shoreline.

The resort concierge can arrange these excursions for guests. If you're a day pass holder, it might be more economical to make tour arrangements in the town of La Fortuna, about 20 km. (12 mi.) from the resort entrance.

The Tabacon resort's location is north of Costa Rica's Central Valley and east of the Pacific coastal regions. A bus ride from the country's main airport in Alajuela (near San José) is 150 km., but takes about four hours due to road conditions. Day pass budget travelers can find low-cost rooms in La Fortuna.